Review: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Sponsored: Witness a remarkable fusion of Britain’s history and culinary mastery with the highly-anticipated arrival of London-born, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, at Atlantis The Royal

The experience whisks you away the minute you step in, feeling a sense of escapement with dishes dating back to the 14th century and intricate interiors including the Pineapple rotisserie and ‘The Dinner Escapement’ clock – inspired by the watchmakers of Greenwich and the royal kitchen of Tudor England.

The restaurant boasts an expansive terrace and floor-to-ceiling windows that offer guests a stunning view of the fire and water fountain show. The fine dining venue exudes luxury throughout, from dark lacquered wall panelling and rustic furniture to jelly-shaped light fittings. What impressed us upon arrival was the concealed automatic sliding entrance door, leading way to the dim-lit restaurant, where we were guided towards our table.

The highlights

Inspired by Tudor dining experiences, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, and ice creams from the late 1800s, the curated menu spotlights dishes from various eras and takes diners on a journey through time with every dish served. Our evening began with Meat Fruit (c.1500), designed after a traditional medieval dish called Pome Dorres or “apples of gold”, featuring a smooth chicken liver parfait artfully disguised as a mandarin, offering a hint of citrus, and paired with grilled sourdough bread.

The moreish Rice & flesh (c.1390) soon arrived, consisting of saffron rice with a tender braised beef cheek and butter, perfectly balanced with a hint of acidity that compliments the richness of the butter and parmesan cheese. One of the most fascinating aspects of the dish is the story it tells about the fusion of two regions – the saffron specially sourced from Persia and the rice locally produced in England to create a dish fit for royalty during the 14th century.

We ordered the Powdered duck breast (c.1846) for our mains, which was inspired by a recipe for “Garnish of braised cabbages” in the 1846 edition of The Modern Cook by Charles Francatelli. The dish comprises sous vide duck breasts, paired with duck hearts, pickled cherries, braised red cabbage, and a smooth and velvety red cabbage fluid gel. The team behind the preparation uses an old British technique of brining meat, which was once referred to as “powdered,” to enhance the flavours and preserve the meat, resulting in a savoury and succulent duck breast.

Even though my dining partner and I were quite full, we couldn’t resist ordering the two iconic desserts on the menu. The Tipsy cake (c.1858), showcasing the brioche cake’s feather-light texture contrasted beautifully with the rich basting of grapes alongside succulent slices of pineapple carefully spit-roasted for up to six hours.

The Sambocade (c.1390) is a distinctive take on the classic featuring a no-bake cheesecake made from goat milk mousse with a filling of goat cheese, elderflower and apple jam accompanied by a side of smoked, candied walnuts, pickled blackberries, and blackberry gel. Without a doubt, the dinner is one of our most cherished and unforgettable experiences in the city!

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Contact +9714 426 2444 or visit website.