Over 72 hours in Vienna, Nicola Monteath moves from imperial history to the city’s well-defined culinary scene
Whether it’s the rhythmic clip-clop of fiacres on cobblestones or the aroma of roasted coffee beans wafting from a grand café, Vienna conveys a distinctive continuity between past and present. It is a city where history is not simply preserved behind glass but lived in, its architecture forming the backdrop to modern life. From the baroque splendour of the Innere Stadt to the artsy district, the Austrian capital offers an amalgam of old-world charm and modern innovation.
How to get to Vienna?
Emirates and Austrian Airlines fly direct to Vienna International Airport.
Where to stay in Vienna?
Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna
If walls could talk, those of the Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna would whisper stories of the 1873 World Exhibition, when this now heritage-listed building first took shape. Set along the iconic Ringstrasse boulevard and designed by renowned architect Baron Theophil Edvard von Hansen, the hotel is a striking example of Neo-Renaissance architecture. Inside, the lobby welcomes guests with soaring ceilings and an atmosphere that feels both warm and refined. Suites are airy and spacious, framed by large windows with city views and enhanced by comfort-forward amenities and thoughtful details, including a calming lavender spray waiting by the bed.
Rooms from €445 (approximately AED1900); visit anantara.com/en/palais-hansen-vienna.
Vienna Itinerary
Day 1: Imperial History & Coffeehouse Culture
TOUR THE CITY
To truly comprehend the weight of the Habsburg legacy, walk the grounds they ruled. Our city immersion began with Basti from Rebel Tours, whose narrative style brings history to life. As we navigated the sprawling grounds of the Hofburg Palace—the winter residence that served as the seat of Austrian power for over 600 years—the sheer scale of this city within a city became apparent. Hidden within these walls is the Sisi Museum, amongst several others, a necessary stop for discovering the romanticised myths of the past. The story of Empress Elisabeth unfolds across the Imperial Apartments, where her private life comes into focus. Formal reception rooms give way to more personal spaces, including her preserved exercise room, complete with wooden wall bars and rings.
Book a tour with rebeltoursvienna.com.
COFFEEHOUSE TRADITION
No trip to Vienna is complete without embracing the UNESCO-recognised coffeehouse culture. For a slice of history and Kardinalschnitte (airy sponge cake layered with meringue), stop at L. Heiner. As an Imperial and Royal Purveyor since 1840, its dark wood panelling and aesthetic preserve the atmosphere of a 19th-century coffee house. It feels like a step back in time, where attention is focused on the quality of cake and a well-made cup of coffee.
CONTEMPORARY VIENNESE MEAL
Witness how the city is reinventing its gastronomic identity at Reznicek. Describing itself as a modern Viennese inn, this cosy dining room is buzzing with chatter in the air. The menu offers brilliant local twists, such as the Styrian hummus, which swaps chickpeas for earthy scarlet runner beans. Even those hesitant about offal may be converted by the Veal tongue – comforting, broth-forward bowl with meat that’s surprisingly delicate and flavoursome. The Beef Zwiebelrost is the star of the show featuring succulent boiled beef on a bed of rich onion gravy, topped with crisp potatoes. Save room for the nostalgic petit fours tray that arrives at the table.
DAY 2: Art, Museums & Fine Dining
A WALK THROUGH HISTORY
Start the day at MAK (Museum of Applied Arts), where design and architecture meet. Explore Donald Judd’s Permanent Collection Baroque Rococo Classicism, which contrasts 18th-century opulence with his Minimal Art aesthetic. Richly ornamented objects are displayed on simple white marble platforms, surrounding the stunning Dubsky Room from Brno, decorated with over 3,000 porcelain pieces.
THE NEW WAVE OF COFFEE
The sleek mid-century vibe of Die Cafetière is instantly inviting. Honouring Vienna’s coffeehouse heritage, this quaint, owner-run espresso bar and café serves a spiced homemade chai, rich hot chocolate, and an exceptional stirred Viennese iced coffee.
As you continue exploring the city, stop by Calienna, a concept store home to lush greenery on the ground floor and a lounge upstairs. The leafy setting brings a sense of calm, making it a relaxed spot to browse indie magazines with a coffee in hand, or pick up tasteful gifts from your travels.
LUNCH AT AN INSTITUTION
Make a reservation at Zum Schwarzen Kameel, a Viennese hotspot that has been serving the city since 1618. This Art Nouveau restaurant and delicatessen is celebrated for its impeccable Tafelspitz (tender boiled beef with horseradish) and what many consider the gold standard of Wiener Schnitzel (crisp, delicately breaded veal). Portions are generous, and the atmosphere lends itself perfectly to a classic lunch. Short on time? Take a seat on the terrace and order a selection of Brötchen (bite-sized open-faced sandwiches).
HAUTE CUISINE DINING
Tucked away on Salzgries in Vienna’s inner city, JOLA is a Michelin-listed restaurant and the brainchild of duo Jonathan Wittenbrink and Larissa Andres. Together, they are redefining the genre, bringing plant-based fine dining to a stratospheric level. The space itself feels like a secret shared between friends. Underneath an industrial ceiling traced with gold-painted pipes, the room is intimate and cosy. There is no printed menu when you arrive. Instead, diners are treated to a surprise, seasonal journey that turns humble vegetables into masterpieces. The menu is seasonal, but let’s paint a picture for you anyway.
A piece of edible architecture greeted us, a flower constructed from yellow and red beetroot, complemented with fresh coriander oil. Pumpkin follows, adorned with orange petals, in a warm moreish broth. Midway through, the menu defies the usual lightness of plant-based eating with a pasta course. Ravioli with Alba truffle and toasted hazelnuts offer texture, earthy notes, and comfort, and soon after, we’re treated to tender Lion’s mane. Paired with broccoli, it offers a textural bite that renders the need for traditional meat protein obsolete. The desserts are equally gorgeous. A poached pear and chocolate quenelle bring in indulgent, velvety notes, while pumpkin spice latte tartlettes resemble daisies, ending the meal with a whimsical touch.
The beverage pairings match the innovation plate for plate. The curated list boasts natural and local varieties, with refined non-alcoholic pairings that are equally compelling. After the meal, the menu is presented on a textured, seed-laced card designed to be planted, where it blooms into flowers and edible produce. The tasting menu is priced at €185 (approximately AED795).
DAY 3: Craftsmanship, Local Eats & Pastry Workshops
THE LANGUAGE OF SILVER
Vienna’s dedication to craftsmanship is evident at Jarosinski & Vaugoin. Founded in 1847, this sixth-generation family atelier is among the world’s oldest silversmiths, renowned for crafting heirloom-worthy cutlery, tableware, and novelties for royalty and high-profile clientele. An exclusive walk through the workshop spans 150 years of on-site artistry, revealing archives of silver made for celebrations long past, alongside designs yet to be brought to life.
EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Head to Gastwirtschaft Steman, a charming Viennese beisl with honey-toned wood panelling, and a striking vintage green bar at the heart of the taproom. The menu feels like a greatest-hits collection of Austrian dishes with comforting plates including the Fiakergulasch (beef stew with gherkin and egg) and Cheese spaetzle with bacon.
THE ART OF APPLE STRUDEL
Return to the Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna for a three-hour apple strudel workshop. Guided by the hotel’s patisserie chef, you’ll master the delicate technique of stretching dough until translucent, before savouring your creation warm from the oven, draped in vanilla sauce. It’s a great introduction to Viennese pastry, and every guest leaves with a certificate worthy of a little well-earned bragging. €138 per person, bookable on request.
LAST BITE
Wrap up your trip at Wrenkh, a contemporary Viennese kitchen that proves tradition doesn’t need meat to feel complete. The restaurant reworks familiar Austrian comfort food to create vegetarian specials. Order the Mushroom schnitzel that’s shatter-crisp on the outside and tender within, paired with creamy Spaetzle, and best washed down with a Plum cardamom fizz.
