Review: Trésind Studio

Since its inception in 2014, Trésind Studio has been a force to be reckoned with in Dubai’s food scene; but this is especially true now more than ever. The award-winning fine-dining concept brimming with Indian infusions has opened at Nakheel Mall, on the iconic Palm Jumeirah.

Starring a breathtakingly sublime, transitional tasting menu by Chef Himanshu Saini, a culinary mastermind who is considered one of the youngest tastemakers in Indian cuisine today, the epicurean destination features intimate tables with a seating capacity of only 20 people.

Once diners are ushered to their seats, the spectacular show begins and we can boldly say it will be one of the greatest ones you will experience. A grand open kitchen takes center stage, where you can watch Chef Himanshu Saini and his team work their culinary magic, working meticulously together to present art on a plate.

The restaurant’s distinctive style marries global ingredients with modern cooking techniques and traditional Indian elements, with the notion of changing the perception of Indian cuisine and elevating how we experience it today. A mission they wholeheartedly achieve. Take your appetite with you as well, for each tasting portion is generous and perfectly portioned.

After a quick walk around, where we were shown a 5,000 sqft urban outdoor garden that was developed with a local organic farm, an al fresco space and a lounge area, we took our seats up front and centre, ready for the evening ahead.

 

The highlights:

Each dish or brew that makes its way to your table is accompanied by a short, impactful description of its elements; and since our personalised 17-course tasting menu was to be accompanied by a beverage pairings option as well, we looked forward to this educative bit every single time.

First up, was the Killer pandan, a femme fatale of a creative concoction teeming with infused roasted pickled peanut and green peppercorn, in a homemade pandan syrup with lime juice, shaken with a white molasses steeped infusion. This innovative sip is meant to replace the bowl of peanuts one would snack on before a meal, whilst enjoying good conversation and company.

This flawless gateway was followed by seven small one-bite delights, most of which included synergy pairing sips, premium beverages or home-brewed potions. The first course comprising Wood-apple pani puri, pomelo salad and coriander flowers arrived, complemented by a fine, top-quality bubbly. Whilst nursing our bubbly, the second course promptly arrived, featuring a delicate Shiso khakra with raw mango chutney, yogurt crémeux and garden herbs. The third course, served alongside a mango lassi drink, included a Lamb and turnip kebab with a roomali roti tartlet, a garnish of a slightly-cooked turnip and a charming marigold flower atop. This lightly-spiced dish perfectly encapsulated the taste of South India.

 

Continuing with accompanying sips of mango lassi, next up was what we could describe as a warm hug – a Missi roti cracker with papadum curry and cultured butter; followed by an absolute favourite, a piece of succulent Duck cafreal with nasturtium leaf dolma and pickled cabbage. Each bite was utterly delectable.

After a short breather, the gastronomic experience ensued with a serving of tangy and syrupy food, to balance the full-bodied red grape. An earthy raw Beetroot kebab with a sweet white chocolate rosette, cherry balsamic and a red berry chutney to cut through the sweetness, together with amaranth and orange zest comprised the sixth course; and it was downright luscious. The seventh course, based on popular Indian street food, was a Blossom chaat, with pumpkin mash and a trio of chutney, adorned with soft crisp edible butterflies made of potato. An orange grape brimming with apricot, saffron and cherry went hand-in-hand with the eight-course, which encompassed a Padrón pepper starring an emulsion of fennel flower and leaf with buttermilk curry ice cream, that is crafted to be had in one single bite.

Ghee roast crab atop a burnt cinnamon stick with fine crisps and curry leaf tempura made up the ninth course, paired with sips of a tomato butter juice and followed by a portion of premium bubbly. This sumptuous dish is served with tweezers for cutlery, where each flavourful bite speaks more to the transfer of flavours and spices than the crab meat itself, which is used only as a medium to transport taste to the taster. Another break was needed at this point, so we excused ourselves to take a short walk outdoors, observing the picturesque garden that offered up the herbs, flowers and even vegetables used in our dining experience.

Resembling a South Indian meal, the tenth course encompassed the flavours one enjoys when reaching the end of an Indian-inspired meal when the last bit of crunchy papad is inevitably mixed with the last of the pickle and a sweet treat. Named Sadhya, which is a traditional hearty Kerala feast served on a banana leaf, the dish comprised a pink peppercorn payasam with a tomato rasam and papadum. The eleventh course contained Tandoori chicken dumplings in a curry brodo (tomato broth with black lentil water, flavoured with North Indian spices such as black and green cardamom), where the dish attempted to showcase the humble tomato elevated by a mouthwatering juice of tandoori drippings and coriander crisp. Kombucha offered a delightful pairing to the twelfth course, which was a fabulous fermented Chilli and prawn curry with popcorn foam and tomato jam, served over a lobster tail. A glass of red grape escorted the thirteenth course, a spectacular melt-in-your-mouth Galouti kebab Scarpetta with a sourdough bun, a recreation of the delicacies served in kebab shops in India. We polished every last bit.

Morel pulao with spring onions, Thai red chilli and pine nuts with an Assam tea dashi garnished with a distilled liquid made from cooked and fermented agave plants, constituted the next course.

Almost at the end but not quite over yet, a pre-dessert zero cooking dish made up the fifteenth course. Titled “Le jardin”, the treat featured cucumber broth and avocado chutney as the base, with mango ice cream and yuzu compressed with aloe vera, fig bits, melon balls and mangosteen. This course aptly cleanses and refreshes your taste buds, getting you ready for the desserts ahead.

Grape carpaccio with fermented milk ice cream, teeming with raisins, peach notes and a gold leaf on top with hints of ginger; together with a remarkable Masala chai Ghost creative concoction that featured chai masala tea enlivened by an excellent matured Cuban heritage beverage, pineapple juice, lemon, whey and red grape, made up the second last course.

Each course featured a grand spectacle, but the seventeenth course was an extravaganza in itself. Lights around us dimmed and musical notes of Frank Sinatra’s Fly Me To the Moon filtered out through discreet speakers. This was followed by the arrival of the last course, a dessert titled “Honeymoon”. Served on a special glowing moon-like lamp, the sinful sweet included organic sidr honey from the Fujairah mountains served on top of the moon (hence, honeymoon); and the prize-winning floral kan-junga black tea from high in the clouds of the Himalayas. Awe-inspiring and luscious, Honeymoon reminded us once again of the remarkable mind and creativity of Chef Himanshu Saini and his team. It was the perfect end to a perfect meal.

 

The verdict:

Nothing like you’ve ever experienced before, Trésind Studio is the definition of expressive epicurean fare. It is a concept that we encourage you to experience at least once in your lifetime. 

 

Book now:

East wing rooftop at Nakheel Mall. Tuesday to Sunday, with two dining schedules at 6:30pm and 9:30pm. Call +97158 895 1272 or email tresindstudio@passionfandb.com. Visit the website or Instagram.