Review: Tezukuri

In the shadow of Dubai Opera, a new Japanese dining concept has emerged with a focus on craftsmanship. Tezukuri, a collaboration between Neha Mishra of Kinoya and Panchali Mahendra of Atelier House Hospitality, is a specialised temaki destination that strips away spectacle in favour of dishes that let the ingredients speak for themselves. The space is minimalist, defined by wood and low lighting that creates depth, directing attention to the 18-seat counter.

Hidden within the walls is a Martini room and listening bar — a no-phone zone with the heady aroma of leather and wood, designed as a sanctuary with a dedicated food and beverage menu. Perfect for an intimate gathering, it’s a space where I’d love to while away the hours with a good book or journal.

Menu highlights

In a kitchen led by the Osaka-born chef Tatsuya, rice is treated as a foundational element rather than a mere vehicle. The kitchen uses Nanatsuboshi, a premium variety from Hokkaido prized for its sweetness, glossy appearence and stickiness. Tinged red from akazu — a rare aged red vinegar produced through slow fermentation — the rice is introduced in a tasting at the start of the meal.

Our lunch commences with an umami-rich miso soup made with barley miso, dashi and tuna flakes. A textured daikon salad follows, paired with white fungus and a sweet plum dressing. The highly anticipated temaki are assembled before diners’ eyes. Crustacean lovers can indulge in the akaebi, a sweet Argentine red prawn, offering natural sweetness against crisp toasted nori. The toro is another gorgeous bite with generous slices of fatty bluefin tuna belly tucked neatly into seaweed.

The attention carries through to cooked and seared dishes. A5 wagyu is seared counterside over Japanese charcoal, a technique that enhances the marbling without sacrificing the beef’s buttery character. It’s noticeable from the first bite of the nigiri topped with meltingly delicate meat. The smoky madai (sea bream) is another standout, handled with minimal intervention. For a more substantial bite, the Tebasaki karaage comes in highly recommended. The sticky glazed boneless chicken wings are crisp, adorned with a generous mound of finely grated Parmesan.

Batter-fried chicken skewers are another juicy bite, topped with pickled radish for tang that cuts through the richness. There’s only one way to end this meal, with assorted Daifuku: matcha-infused rice cakes with strawberry and chestnut fillings. The beverage menu is quite impressive too, with Japanese specialties and a creative selection of distinctive ingredients. The Okinawa mocktail is a refreshing blend of Lyre’s Italian spritz and genmaicha soda, with a light fizz and subtle herbal notes. Meanwhile, the Kobe concoction offers a bold twist on the classic Old Fashioned, featuring kumquat coffee bitters for layered complexity.

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