Review: Girl & the Goose

From cabin crew to chef-restaurateur, Gabriela Chamorro first launched Girl & the Goose as a supper club in 2019 from her home in Dubai, before the pandemic reshaped her path and propelled her fully into the kitchen. The goose — her personal symbol of migration, resilience and renewal — mirrors her journey from Nicaragua to the Middle East.

Tucked into the first floor of the Anantara Downtown, the family-style dining room here features terracotta warmth, spilling onto an open-air terrace with courtyard views that evoke the intimacy of a private residence. It’s a clever bit of architectural sleight-of-hand that preserves the supper club soul. The menu acts as a vibrant map of Chamorro’s heritage, where Central American staples are elevated with a fine-dining touch that feels essential rather than decorative.

Menu highlights

We started with the Elotes Loco, a wild corn salad that plates up the joy of street food, bringing together the smokiness of the grilled corn with a bouquet of cilantro, shiso, and mint. Pecans and chayote add a welcome crunch. Equally impressive is Gigi’s Guacamole. A holdover from her supperclub days, this isn’t your standard table-side mash. Served chunky mashed with jalapenos, alongside caramelised onions and a surprising tangy ponzu cream, it pairs perfectly with the crisp plantain chips.

If you’re keen on fish, we highly recommend at least one serving of the Chalupas. The Tuna Tartare crispy tostada is truly an explosion of flavours. Starring Spanish tuna akami, the tender fish is marinated in ponzu, punctuated by the sharp bite of pickled red onions and the airy crunch of crispy leeks. Meanwhile, the Lubina Aguachile ticks all the boxes for an incredible ceviche. Fresh sea bass sits in a delicate, spicy cucumber marinade enhanced with dried black olives and orange zest for texture. The highlight here is a refreshing jalapeño sorbet that provides a slow-burn chill, though diners should note the dish contains alcohol for that extra botanical lift.

For mains, the Coffee & Orange Duck Confit is exceptionally tender, falling away at the suggestion of a fork, paired with a velvety squash purée and a reduction that balances the bitterness of coffee with citrus. Crunchy cacao nibs and earthy chanterelle mushrooms add layers of texture.

If you’re after something more decadent, the table and chef’s favourite from this course is the Lobster Bisque Yuca Gnocchi. Sink your teeth into handcrafted pillows of creamy yuca root bathed in a moreish bisque, topped with black truffle and raw, cured lobster tartare. Burnt sage and butter lend a nutty, aromatic touch. The finale is as much a game as it is a course.

Dessert is introduced through a playful set of Lotería cards, a nod to the nostalgic Central American game Chalupa. We played and went down the traditional route with the Sweet Yoltamal, a traditional young corn masa dough wrapped in a fragrant husk and steamed to a delicate, cake-like consistency.

Paired with a whipped ricotta cheese sauce and berry compote, it’s a rustic dish brought into this era with a scoop of homemade tarragon ice cream and white chocolate. It is a fitting end to a meal that feels less like an invitation into Chamorro’s home.

Book now

Make a reservation at girlandthegoose.com.